MoonBoard: the training board explained
The MoonBoard explained: Ben Moon's LED training wall, its six official setups, why its grades run hard, and who should climb on it. Facts as of September 2026.
The MoonBoard is the wall with the fixed grid and the glowing holds. One panel, one problem library, one grade scale. A problem set on it in Berlin works in Tokyo. It is also the board with the reputation. Climbers call its grades the hardest of the app boards. This guide covers what it is, its six setups, its grades, and who it suits, as of September 2026. It sits beside the Kilter Board guide in the site’s Training Facilities catalogue.
What a MoonBoard is
A MoonBoard is a standardised LED training wall. The panel measures 2.44 by 3.25 metres, per Wikipedia. It carries a dense grid of almost 200 holds, overhanging at 25 or 40 degrees. Every board in the world uses the same grid. That fixed layout is the product. A logged problem works on every other MoonBoard.
The board began as British climber Ben Moon’s home wall. Wikipedia dates his wood versions to the late 1980s and 1990s, built in Sheffield with Andy Pollitt. The formal origin was The School Room, the informal gym where Moon and other leading British climbers trained. Moon and Rich Simpson brought the board to market in 2005. The 2016 edition added its two defining ingredients: LEDs and an app that shares problems worldwide.
The app turns the wall into a library. Climbers browse problems, filter for the benchmarks, and follow the lit holds. Sends are logged against one shared grade scale. That scale invites comparison and argument.
The six official setups
Moon lists six official setups as of 2026, and each is its own problem library. The company’s site lays them out: 2016, 2017, 2019, Mini Moonboard 2020, 2024, and Mini Moonboard 2025. The 2016 setup was the first on the app. The 2017 setup added the 25-degree option and filled the grid. The 2024 setup is the newest full-size board. It adds three blue hold sets the company calls more sloping. The two Minis serve climbers without space for a full panel.
| Setup | Hold sets (per Moon’s shop) | Notable facts |
|---|---|---|
| 2016 | Original School, School A, School B | First setup on the app |
| 2017 | Original School, School A-C, Wood A, screw-on footholds | First 25/40-degree option; full grid |
| 2019 | Original School, School A-B, Wood A-C, screw-on footholds | Built at 25 or 40 degrees |
| Mini 2020 | Original School, Wood A-C | Small spaces |
| 2024 | New School D-F, Wood A-C, two foothold sets | Newest full-size grid |
| Mini 2025 | Original School, Wood B-C, School F | Newest Mini |
The hold sets are sold separately, and the prices are published. Per the shop pages, as of 2026: Original School Holds run 230 pounds. The School sets run 380 to 430 pounds, the wood sets 350. The screw-on footholds cost 45 to 60 pounds. A full-size setup spans several hundred pounds of holds before frame, LEDs, and installation.
NoteSetups are not interchangeable. A 2016 board and a 2019 board carry different hold sets. The app treats their problems as separate libraries. Climbers pick a setup the way they pick a gym.
MoonBoard grades run hard
Among the app boards, community consensus puts the MoonBoard last for generosity. Asked which board a beginner should try, regulars give a fixed ordering: “kilter, tension, moon easiest to hardest” (r/indoorbouldering). That thread’s commenters agree the Moon is hardest, whichever hold set is installed.
The comparisons go further than board versus board. On a grades-versus-rock thread, one regular finds “2016 MB grades maybe 1 grade harder than outside” (r/climbharder). Another calls the Moon “the most sandbagged” in a big difficulty thread on r/indoorbouldering. A fourth is blunt about the whole family: “Kilter is easier than outside. Moon board is harder than outside.”
Two mitigating facts sit beside the verdicts. First, the board grades a narrow style: big pulls on small holds on steep wood. Climbers from slabby gyms meet a foreign discipline on the Moon. Second, the benchmarks are the fair subset. The community has vetted them; the open library’s grades swing more. How bouldering grades work covers why scales disagree.
Angles: 40 is the standard, 25 is the option
The classic MoonBoard hangs at 40 degrees. Wikipedia gives “typically overhanging at 25 or 40 degrees”. Moon’s shop text says the 2019 setup “can be built at an angle of either 25 or 40”. Your preferred difficulty decides. The 25-degree option divides climbers. In a 46-comment homewall thread, one regular argues the board “is not designed to be at 25 degrees”. It was “added as an option”, he says, and “called it a day”. Another reports the hold shaping “catches your skin badly” there (r/climbharder). The thread’s climbers still suggest 25 for households training together. The easier angle lets a weaker climber share the board.
Steepness compounds the board’s natural hardness. On a Mini Moonboard 2025 at 50 degrees, a V12 climber “often struggle[s] on 6s and 7s” (r/climbharder). Unlike the adjustable Kilter, a MoonBoard is built at its angle. Check the wall’s degrees before trying it.
- Find the board’s angle. 40 is standard.
- Install the app. Create an account.
- Filter for benchmarks. Skip outliers.
- Expect grades a notch harder than your gym’s.
- Ignore assigned footholds on easy problems if allowed.
The app, the database, and the gripes
The app is the remote control. It lights the problem, tracks attempts, and keeps the log. It needs a MoonBoard account. The database is why climbers accept it: millions of problems, graded on one scale, valid on every board.
The app is also the board’s standing complaint. A thread titled “It’s amazing how bad the moonboard application is” reached 149 upvotes in March 2026. It lists missing lights, endless refreshes, and login errors (r/bouldering). The top reply points to BoardLib, an open-source library that pulls board data into a local database. It’s the community’s workaround for data lock-in. The contrast with the Kilter is instructive. The Kilter Board guide covers its 2026 app reset, in which accounts didn’t transfer. The MoonBoard app has been unreliable too, but it hasn’t required a mass migration.
Who the MoonBoard suits
The board suits climbers who want measurable training on steep terrain. It also demands readiness for its grades. The community’s advice to newer climbers is blunt. One reply to a first V3 warns that “fingers and tendons need more time to get strong” (r/indoorbouldering). The beginner thread’s practical line: “I wouldn’t bother till you’re climbing 4s on overhang” (r/indoorbouldering).
Regulars also flag the narrowness. A climber who swapped varied climbing for the board heard a caution. “Foregoing movement variety” for the MB “likely isn’t the best path forward” (r/climbharder). The board rewards one style and repeats it. That’s the point of a training wall, not a complete diet.
TipTreat the MoonBoard as a power tool inside a normal week, not a replacement for the gym’s set problems. Its grades measure one style on steep wood.
For travellers the trade flips positive. The fixed grid means a familiar benchmark is waiting in the next city, wherever a MoonBoard hangs. That portability, plus the shared grade scale, keeps the board’s audience despite the app and the sandbagging.
The Bottom Line
- A standardised LED training wall: 2.44 x 3.25 m, one shared library. Ben Moon created it. It went commercial in 2005.
- Six official setups exist as of 2026: 2016, 2017, 2019, Mini 2020, 2024, and Mini 2025. Each carries its own hold sets and problems.
- Its grades are the hardest of the app boards by community consensus, roughly a notch harder than gym equivalents.
- The standard angle is 40 degrees. The 25-degree option splits opinion. A MoonBoard is built at its angle, not adjusted.
- Beginners should wait until overhanging 4s feel normal. Everyone else gets a measurable tool with a chronically grumbled-about app.
Sources: Wikipedia for history and dimensions. Moonboarding.com shop pages (archived copy) for setups and prices as of 2026. Threads on r/bouldering, r/climbharder, and r/indoorbouldering for sentiment, quoted as opinion with links. Facts compiled September 2026.
Filed under Training Facilities.